Discover the Golden Isles

Pristine beaches, historic sites, and coastal beauty await…

Arriving by ‘Les Bateaux Verts’ from Les Issambres after a leisurely 90-minute boat ride along the sun-kissed waters of the Southern Mediterranean coastline, the small island of Port Cros comes into view, its round ‘Fort du Moulin’ presiding over the small harbour. It is mid-morning and already the local dive boat is returning its human cargo to shore, scuba tanks disgorged onto the dock amid a group of contented divers, peeling off their fins and wet suits as they disembark. Port Cros is famous for its unique flora and fauna offering an enchanting underwater world, making it a popular dive destination. A French flag marks the Tourist Office at the tip of the harbour, which offers its pedestrian visitors information on how to discover this wild and protected National Park in the archipelago of the Golden Islands. If you enjoy hiking, there are 30km of footpaths to explore, as well as the other fortresses of l’Estissac and Port Man.

I have an excursion ticket combining visits to the islands of Port Cros and Porquerolles, which affords me a 90-minute stop-over before the next boat at 12.30. Since I am improperly clad for a hike across-island, I decide instead to enjoy lunch at one off the pretty port-side restaurants and watch the harbour activities. ‘La Trinquette’ sits in the left-hand corner with a nice shady terrace and views up to the fort on the headland. I order a glass of Rose and ‘Les Gambas a la Provencal’. As the day begins to warm up, I watch tourists trek past with rucksacks and maps, perhaps heading to the little church and chateau which decorate the bay by the ‘Fort de l’Estissac’ or to the top of Mount Vinegar at the island’s highest point. Such visits require a day’s visit with a return sailing to Sainte Maxime or Les Issambres on the mainland at 17.20. 

After lunch, it’s a 45-minute boat ride from Port Cros to Porquerolles and from the open deck I can clearly see the town of Hyeres on the Var coastline where boats also depart to and from these islands. By now there is a flotilla of sail boats flitting about in the breeze, taking long tacks across the bay under a clear blue sky – ‘Le Grand Bleu’. 

The island of Porquerolles is known as the ‘pearl’ of these Golden Isles and is the largest in the archipelago. Local legend has it that King Olbianus had four beautiful daughters whom he adored. One day, as his daughters were bathing far from the coast, they were threatened by pirates. The King implored the Gods to save his daughters, and persuaded by his prayers, the Gods transformed the Princesses into stone. The three daughters the furthest from shore became ‘Les Iles d’Or’ (the Golden Islands): Port Cros, Porquerolles and Le Levant. The fourth daughter, trying to rejoin her father, became the ‘Presqu’ile de Giens”.  It is said that the islands have preserved the incredible beauty of the Princesses.

Porquerolle’s coastline offers creeks and capes with sheer cliffs to the south, and in the north wide open sandy beaches laced by turquoise waters. ‘Notre Dame’ beach was voted the best beach in Europe! And in the heartland lie the vineyards.  There is also the contemporary art gallery of ‘La Fondation Carmignac’ where I am now headed. From the busy harbour adorned with large yachts and brightly-painted fishing boats, past bike rental shops, harbour cafes and ice-cream stalls, I turn left just before the small town and begin the 0.2km walk up the rocky road towards the Villa Carmignac. ‘Velos’ or bikes are the most popular way to tour this island paradise, where the atmosphere is laid back and everyone is in vacation-mode. The French verb ‘lezarder’ (to lounge) says it best as in ‘je vais lezarder sur la plage’.  I plan to do that a little later! 

At the entrance to the estate, I am offered a bewitching drink composed of floral and foliar water, rosemary, bay leaf and catnip inviting me on ‘a journey of wonder and contemplation.’  Open to the public since 2018, the Villa Carmignac is a 2000sq.m. art exhibition space surrounded by a ‘Garden of Sculptures’ stretching 15ha. Bathed in light under a suspended pool ceiling enclosed in clear glass, the white-walled exhibition centre presents different exhibits yearly, together with workshops and guided tours. There is a small bookshop next to the gallery entrance, with views across to the sea. I am politely requested to remove my shoes inside the gallery, and walk barefoot on the cool white stone past an imposing headless figure by Rodin, to view the works of this exhibition entitled ‘The Inner Island’.  There are paintings of landscapes and bodies, a tangle of mirages and dreamlike situations – the exhibition curated by Jean-Marie Gallais, explores an essential driver of creation and the distancing of reality. One room is filled with a mural of strange, sea-like creatures and in the centre of the room two large floor cushions entice me to lie and listen to toning sounds while surrounded by the vision. 

Outside in the garden, I follow a descending stone pathway that winds through the ‘Exotic Hillock’ area comprised of plant species native to the island and also from faraway lands. The varied plant life interspersed with splendid bronze and stainless steel sculptures seems to link the interior and exterior. The vegetal fragrances are intoxicating as I continue on through the ‘Meadow’ filled with alfalfa, oats, fennel, poppy and other herbaceous perennials extending out towards the sea. Suddenly I spy a brown ‘Reeve’ pheasant on the path that leads me up to the restaurant ‘Le Poisson Ivre’ (The Drunken Fish) under a canopy of trees. I decide to take pause for a while to write a postcard and sip an iced lemonade.

On my walk back towards the village, I make a slight detour from the path towards the beach and under an archway of pines I emerge onto a narrow pebble beach beckoned by the sparkling turquoise waters. Above me sits the ‘Fort Sainte-Agathe’ where people gather on the rooftop to admire the view. Families play ball in the shallows, as others paddle on their boards and boats bob at anchor close to shore. The sea is refreshing from the hot Mediterranean sun as I while away my remaining time on this idyllic golden isle. 

An avid traveler, with a passion for travel writing and cooking, Gillie Hutchinson loves exploring new cultures, fashions and cuisines.