Antibes – Market, Picasso and More

The city of Antibes, as with many other parts of the Cote d’Azur, pays homage to the visionary artist Picasso, where on the 50th anniversary of his death, the Musee Picasso is celebrating ‘La Fin du Debut” (“The End of the Beginning”) of his late paintings from 1969-1972.

From its dominant position above the Mediterranean, the impressive stone architecture of the old Chateau Grimaldi, which became the Picasso Museum in 1966, stands like a rock, its interior filled with movement and vitality. Indeed, this exhibition offers a wellspring of the artist’s exuberant work expressed in bright colours and large formats, giving life to its walls and corridors. I have visited neighbouring Mougins where Picasso spent the last decade of his life, and witnessed his playful bronze statues dancing from roof tops and fountains. He believed that ‘youth has no age”. This fascinating spectacle of a gallery filled with drawings and paintings of bold figures – Musketeers, musicians, hairy-faced men; and the poised figures of couples embracing, women with infants, seems to highlight Picasso’s particular attention to the eyes – asymmetrical, with dilated pupils, almost childlike, staring and challenging. It is easy to see how Picasso entered art history. His entire life as an artist and man was a creative proliferation, opening new horizons for painting. He continued to paint until his death at age 91 in full possession of his faculties. No other artist has demonstrated such longevity and productivity.  

After such an enlightening morning of art gazing, I wonder back down the steps and side streets to Le Marche Provencal, the covered street marketplace – another gem of Antibes. I am again struck by the abundance of colour, the bold shapes of fresh produce gleaming in the sunlight, the life-force of earth heralding such marvellous fruit. The tall-stemmed yellow sunflowers, the luscious red strawberries, the deep purple aubergines, the pale courgette flowers and more. I stop at the fresh spice stand, amazed by the variety and colour and select 50g of ‘violettes cristallisees’, a confectionary delight to add to cakes and sweet dishes. There are also some crystallized rose flowers but I leave those until next time. Many of the spices are locally grown, hand-picked and on display here. It’s as if there is a different spice for every culinary dish imaginable and it would take an eon to cook with each one. If only I didn’t have to squash them up in a suitcase! The aromatic herbs fill the air – lavender, lemon balm and mint and I enjoy a heady whiff as I wait for my wares.  

The town clock strikes midday and since my appetite is heightened surrounded by all these delectable foods, I say ‘Au Revoir’ to the market and head through the Old Town in search of a suitable place for lunch. Just across from the front of the marketplace, take a left down ‘Rue Georges Clemenceau’ and then a right onto the cobbled street of ‘Rue Thuret’. Soon you will hear the unmistakeable sounds of an accordionist beckoning you to this lively 3-cornered bistro ‘Chez Jules’, its tables bursting out onto the street under faded green awnings. The sound of merriment is always so inviting as I take an outside table barely gripping the pavement and feel myself smiling along too! The menu is varied and reasonably-priced and waiters seem to appear and disappear like characters in a theatrical sit-com. The music makes me feel as it I am in Paris, and the local Rose wine provides the perfect accompaniment to this happy scene. I am reminded of a Picasso quote – ‘Everything lives in the moment. It is the only time when it can live.” 

After a delightful lunch, I stroll down to the ‘Gelateria Del Porto’ on ‘Rue Aubernon’ for a delicious artisanal ice cream before leaving the Old Town and coming to the marina, full of expensive yachts, and the city walls that surround much of Antibes. They were built in the 10th Century to protect the residents from invaders, and a scenic walk along these historical Ramparts is a perfect afternoon activity. From here the views are inspiring and a freshening sea breeze brushes against my face and hair. It is easy to imagine wanting to paint in this place so full of sensory experiences.

Ahh… Antibes!